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Freddy has gone more in depth with the Banking but, The Banking info is worth the price and probably more if you do any wagering. I just book marked the good bits to cut down on the page flipping to get to the next gem. One person found this helpful. But it's price is a bit steep. If you're a serious pool player especially bank pool this book is loaded with excellent info. Unless you plan on playing bank pool for money. Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. I thought this was an instructional book. Instead it just tells stories about old pool players.
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Some of the stories are cute, but not at all what I wanted to get some tips of improving my game. I don't know anything about pool, this book was given as a gift and the receipent is very happy with it. One person found this helpful 2 people found this helpful. The only other book it would consider buying on how to bank is Banking With The Beard.
The person who gave it 1 star I'd way off. The best way to hit these shots is to use medium speed, and what I mean by that, is that you use only enough speed to get the object ball to make it to the needed pocket, and maybe advance another diamond if you manage to miss. Diagram 1 Dead straight on. Use 1 tip left-hand english, medium speed.
Diagram 2 Cut-bank, cross-side twice. Diagram 3 Pass-over bank, cross-side twice.
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Use 1 tip follow, no english, medium speed. Hit 1 tip above center. Following are solutions for a recurring situation in bank pool: The inspiration for this strategy lesson came from my son, Dino who had replied to a bank pool question on one of the pool forums. An excellent banker himself, these solutions are representative of his ideas all of which I agree completely with that he set forth in the forum bank thread. The score is tied 7 to 7 with one ball left on the table, and it is hanging in the back corner pocket at the head of the table.
Your opponent pockets the ball, the ball spots up, and the cue ball is left dangling in the mouth of the corner pocket. Firing at the straight back to the left, and trying to win immediately is one option. I would only recommend firing at the straight back under certain circumstances.
For even a top banker, that degree of shot difficulty would make him about a 2 to 1 favorite to miss, and missing would leave things wide open for the other guy. If you miss going all out like that you would then become at least a 2 to 1 favorite to leave a good shot for your opponent.
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In my opinion, this aggressive strategy is only recommended if you have the confidence and the accuracy of a top banker — along with a weak opponent, or a small bet, or a game of little consequence. Whenever I recommend a shot option, I always frame it in the scenario that I would lose a part of my body if I chose wrongly. A second safer option, percentage-wise, that might not win the game, but at the very least figures to not lose it, is to bank it with soft speed back under you, to the right. If you feel you have a decent amount of accuracy and cue ball control, banking it straight back to the right with loads of center-left english, and of course pocket speed, you can hang it or come close, while killing the cue ball on the foot rail.
If you happen to make it, then all the better. If you miss but execute it carefully, your opponent will then be nine feet away from the only ball on the table; it will be hopefully hanging in the pocket, or better yet, close to the head rail at an angle that would only allow a four-railer.
Your opponent will be forced to shoot at a difficult far away bank or have to play a delicate safety — of which many things could go wrong with. This strategy is recommended for any meaningful situation if you have confidence in your ability to execute it.
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This is what you probably want to do for the big cheese. There is no point in trying to be a hero when your executional skills are low on ammunition. This is an even simpler variation of option 2. This shot is much easier to execute. In this variation you still cross over the left face of the object ball with plenty of left center-axis english, but you completely forego any attempt to make the bank. The object ball travels down to the head rail, and probably bounces a diamond or so out off of the rail. Because your oppo is so close to the cushion, and with the object ball so far off the cushion, it will be very difficult for him to control the cue ball, and he should be unable to leave you close to the head rail no matter what he chooses to shoot.
So your next shot, if he misses should be a big improvement over your previous when you were hanging in the back corner. This is basically a One pocket shot, and it has confounded onepocketeers for a long time. Players usually take an educated guess at this shot, and they usually wind up with mixed results. To elevate your results with this shot you must learn the basic entrance angle, and then have some idea of where the object ball is going to contact the second, or long rail.
A big key in this shot is to allow the object ball to take a natural roll the last 3 or 4 feet before it gets to the pocket. The most important factor of course, is the math involved. To start with, think diamond to diamond, diamond 2. The next adjustment is to always sight and shoot THRU the diamond point on the long rail.
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However, up until diamond 2. Up until diamond 2. Simply sight thru the indicated long rail diamonds to a point opposite the designated diamond count on the end rail up to diamond 2. Once the shot lays past diamond 2. Any shot that lies anywhere in the grey area can be made by hitting in the grey area on the short rail.
You need to use an easy speed on this shot otherwise the object ball will not take a natural angle off of the long rail. This is to say, a starting point of 0. Rule 1 — The short rail diamond count for these shots begins at a point opposite the relevant diamond positions. Rule 2 — In the lower half of the table, on the long rail, the first contact point is opposite the indicated diamonds ie.
For example, a bank that lies in the track at. There is always a 1: To reiterate the formula step by step: The calculation for a bank from opposite end rail diamond 0. Likewise, a bank from opposite short rail diamond 0. Rule 3 — In the upper half of the table on the long rail, sight through, rather than opposite the indicated diamonds. So when the indicated diamond count takes you to the upper half of the table i.
However, that is pretty much all that changes, because the same 1: Rule 4 — Short rail starting points are always opposite the diamonds. Short rail diamond position, 1. Shoot through diamond 7. Here we are again providing a mathematical solution to a multi-rail bank shot by using the diamonds to chart a way to find the winning path.
It basically involves dividing whatever the starting position, diamond wise, of the cue ball on the long rail by a variant of three to find the contact position for the object ball on the other long rail. We are using a Ghost Ball in the diagram as the starting point. Cue ball starting a diamond 3? Then the object ball must contact the cushion at diamond 1.
Object ball contact point is 0. Contact point is 0. Sight opposite diamonds on all shots. Three in the side shots are calculated on a 3: Shots are sighted between the centers of Ghost Balls that are exactly opposite the relative diamond positions. The important thing is to keep the ball that is breaking off of the third rail to continue to work for you and head for the side pocket. Therefore, on shot A to get the correct break off the third cushion you need to add two helping tips of outside, or in this case, right hand english.
Shot B, 3d to 1d. This is the most natural of all the angles. You need no english at all. The third rail break comes off perfectly. This angle requires just a little help, so we only need to add one tip of outside english to get that natural third rail break. And as I said before, the system is simpler than you might think.
Set up and shoot these positions on your practice table and you will be amazed at the results. The cloth is put on a table with the nap, or threads or grain of the cloth, running between the end or short rails. The cloth should be installed with the grain running toward the foot of the table where you rack the balls. This end of the table is known especially to Three Cushion billiard players as the long end of the table. Long end and short end, are billiard terms, and refer to the fact that a ball rolling slowly toward the corner coming off the long rail rolls long to the short rail on the long end and short toward the long rail on the short end.
When a ball rolls toward the long end of the table, you are going with the grain of the cloth. Conversely, a ball rolling toward the head of the table will be going against the grain and toward the short end of the table. A ball traveling with the grain moves slightly faster than when it rolls against the grain.
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A ball rolling between the side rails slows up quicker than it would between the end rails because it is running across the grain or nap. Think of the ball going bump-bump across railroad tracks and the last track then hampering the ball from coming unfrozen and locking the ball into the rail.
There are several easy ways to immediately determine the long and short end of any table. Probably the simplest test is to shoot the cue ball out of the corner three rails to the opposite corner. Shoot the same shot out of all four corners and note the results. Coming slowly off the third rail, you will notice that the ball will begin to favor rolling to either the end rail or the side rail. If the ball favors or tilts toward the long rail that is the short end of the table. If the ball begins to seek the short or end rail, that will be the long end of the table.
All of this presumes that the table is relatively level. Diagrams 2 and 3 show the approximate effects of slowing rolling cross-corner and straight-back bank shots on a relatively level table, being influenced by the short and long end of the table. Site search Search for: Bank Pool I am publishing on this site a series of bank pool lessons that originally appeared in my columns while I was with Inside Pool magazine. Bank Pool strategy Shot selection in bank pool and one pocket is all about percentages and the score.
AKA, divide the angle, or bisect the angle. All bank calculations begin there. Here are the 3 possible bank angles: A perfect, straight in, 2 to 1 ratio, natural angle. Diagram A The illustration shows the simple 2 to 1 banking system that is used to calculate most one-cushion bank shots. A bank can lie in only two other angles: See Diagram B 3.
Avoiding Kisses When the balls line up on a straight line to the middle of the facing of the corner pocket, the bank is a dead kiss. When the balls line up on a straight line to the middle of the pocket, there is no kiss Diagram 3 is another variation that must be considered. Learn to recognize this bank angle whenever and wherever it pops up because with a little practice you will own this shot. Rudy rated it it was amazing Jan 16, Rochelle Brown rated it it was amazing Jun 25, Jeff rated it really liked it Feb 05, Serafina Concannon rated it it was amazing Apr 07, Nandu Jayakumar marked it as to-read Dec 25, Nandu marked it as to-read Apr 18, Sean marked it as to-read Mar 06, Monica Barraza added it Apr 13, Chris marked it as to-read Jun 05, Mark Denomme marked it as to-read Nov 05, Alex Kuiper marked it as to-read Jan 21, Nadia Abukou marked it as to-read Feb 02, Tan Nguyen marked it as to-read Nov 03, Demetria added it Jul 08, Michael Pittman marked it as to-read Jan 24, Chris Mccollough added it Oct 13, Carl P DeLuca added it Jun 25, Paul Goergen is currently reading it Jul 10, David Addis is currently reading it Sep 08,
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